Fabulous Ferrets
Ferrets that are sick should be seen by a qualified and experienced “ferret vet” immediately. Ferrets often don’t display signs of illness until it has become very serious and they can go downhill very fast. Don’t wait for answers from this web site or try any “home remedies” even if they are listed here. Inappropriate treatment and “do-it-yourself” diagnosis can be life threatening to your ferret.
http://www.miamiferret.org/ffaid.htm
Bio:
Ann Davis is director of ACME Ferret Company Rescue in Springfield, Virginia, National Coordinator for the League of Independent Ferret Enthusiasts, Ferret Coordinator for the Project BREED Rescue Directory, and Rescue Chair for the Ark Angels of LIFE Rescue/Shelters.
Dr. Jean Wardell practices Veterinary Medicine in Annandale, Virginia. She has a large ferret practice and is interested in sonography, especially ferret cardiology. Dr.Wardell would be happy to answer inquiries from other veterinarians via fax (703) 941-5340.
The domestic ferret in America today evolved from the European polecat and is the only domesticated member of the weasel family (Mustelidae), which also includes mink, otters, skunks, and the endangered North American black-footed ferret. Domestic ferrets weigh between 1-1/2 and 5-1/2 pounds, reaching maturity at 9 months, and normally live 7-9 years. There are about a dozen distinct coloration patterns, including chocolate, cinnamon, sable, albino, and silver mitt.
Ferrets are intelligent, resourceful, curious, frolicsome animals. Their characteristic play mode–arching the back, hopping up and down, and tumbling backwards with gleeful abandon–is sometimes called the “weasel war dance.” They also make a variety of sounds, from a gentle clucking song known as “dooking” to a punctuated panting sound in the middle of rambunctious play. They are affectionate companions who enjoy interacting with each other, dogs, cats, and humans. Even if abused by a previous owner, ferrets generally respond appreciatively to gentle handling, and rescues quickly bond with their new human companions.
Ferrets rescued from large mills are often not socialized and need to be taught that biting is unacceptable. This can be done with a gentle “thump” to the nose. As with any companion animal, it is not recommended that they be left alone with small children.
They can be litter and leash trained, but if allowed to run free in the house, care must be taken to prevent access to cabinets, vents, under sides of appliances, and other potential danger points (pipes, containers of detergents or solvents) which their natural inquisitiveness may lead them to explore. For example recliners must always be in an upright position when ferrets are out. These gifted escape artists must not be allowed to venture outside except under close and constant supervision, for they have a poor sense of direction and cannot survive for more than a few days on their own. They should be kept confined to one room or cage when their human companions are not at home. Water and food should always be available. (Ferrets do not overeat.)
It is important to vaccinate ferrets against canine distemper, which is invariably fatal to them. Young ferrets or “kits” as they are called should be vaccinated at 8-10, 12-14, and 16-18 weeks, with a yearly booster. There is also an approved rabies vaccination for ferrets.
Female ferrets (“jills”) must mate or die. If they are not taken out of heat by a male (“hob”) or spayed, they will eventually develop aplastic anemia, which is fatal. Descenting, to remove the musk glands, is considered mutilation, and should only be considered when there is no alternative. Ferrets’ teeth need to be cleaned, just like dogs and cats, and their claws, which are not retractable, should be clipped short like a dog’s. Neither teeth filing nor declawing is considered humane treatment.
Rescued ferrets, particularly when found out of doors, are likely to be suffering from malnutrition and dehydration. In a dehydration emergency, a 1:1 solution of Karo syrup and water, or honey and water, can be administered until veterinary care is available. Healthy ferrets normally eat high-protein dry kitten food, though some will eat bits of fruit or vegetables as snacks. They should never be fed bones, which can cause intestinal damage. Dairy products, which can cause diarrhea, should be avoided. A ferret too weak to eat can often be coaxed to drink a liquid food supplement such as Sustacal or eat a high-calorie paste such as Nutri-Cal. See Duck Soup Recipe.
Ferrets are vulnerable to common respiratory infections, including colds and flus. They should never be given aspirin. They are also quite susceptible to heat exhaustion and heat stroke in temperatures exceeding 85 degrees, particularly in direct sunlight. It is essential to house ferrets inside, since they are vulnerable to diseases carried by wild animals and are often sought as prey by marauding raccoons. Ferrets that are kept out of doors often succumb to heartworm.
If the opportunity presents itself, they will often swallow indigestible articles such as rubber bands or pieces of vinyl squeak toys, causing intestinal blockage. Persistent vomiting, loss of appetite, lethargy, and dehydration are indications of blockage; prompt veterinary attention is essential. Other symptoms warranting veterinary attention are blood in the urine, severe hair loss, breathing difficulty, inability to urinate, dramatic weight loss, lethargy and weakness, loss of color in gums, and constant scratching or chewing of the paws.
Persistent hair loss may be a sign of adrenal carcinoma, a disease remedied by surgical removal of the affected adrenal gland. Drooling or staggering may be signs of insulinoma (a form of pancreatic cancer), which is treatable through drugs and/or surgery, sometimes prolonging a ferret’s life for as much as 2 years, but is eventually fatal.
For more information and to read the rest of the article, please click here.
http://www.miamiferret.org/alternative_treatment.htm
by Carla Almarez
Please consult your veterinarian for a diagnosis of your ferret’s condition. A veterinarian is trained to diagnose and it is dangerous to guess at a treatment for a ferret without knowing the cause of a problem e.g. a ferret that is vomiting may have eaten something that does not agree with them or have eaten something that has blocked the intestines. The blockage requires immediate surgery to save the life of the animal. However, the natural remedies listed below have been used by individuals (“anecdotal evidence”) when a condition is known (aging, for example) or when a condition has been diagnosed by a vet (Rommel’s Vita-min-oil Mixture for a poor coat). There are many other possible aids for each of these conditions which we hesitate to recommend them unless we have used them successfully. A clean water supply is important to your pet’s health. When a weak immune system or degenerative condition exists, toxic-free water is important. Filtered water is the first choice or distilled water as a second choice. A naturally healthy pet starts with good nutrition. Good nutrition will minimize medical expenses, reduced stool, less odor, and less food consumption (higher quality protein is better absorbed by the body).
“Ferrets are extremely sensitive to stress. Stress alters our equilibrium and ferrets can sense the smallest ripple. . . I am the guardian of these ferrets and it is my obligation to make them as comfortable as possible both physically and mentally… We are only here for a short time and our ferrets for even shorter.” (Troy Lynn Eckert)
For the best possible health of your ferret, make sure they have clean litter boxes and sleeping areas, fresh food and water daily, no ear mites, fleas, or other parasites, and receive regular veterinary care and vaccinations. Very important to a ferret’s emotional and mental health is the daily companionship of their human care-givers. Providing adequate mental stimulation is essential. To mentally stimulate a ferret, invent new games, modify the environment (put a blanket on the floor, combine several of their toys, etc.), rotate toys, hide small treats that require tracking to locate, take the ferret outside on a leash, etc. During the one-on-one interaction time, check the physical health of the ferret to detect and treat problems early. During a body massage, check for tumors or parasites, look in the mouth for discolored teeth or red gums, check for ears and eyes for problems, etc.
This article also contains information on natural remedies and dosages for ferrets, as well as recipes for ferret heath maintenance.
To read more on this article, please, click here.
http://www.everythingferret.com/ferret_health_issues.htm
Like any domestic pet, ferrets can develop variety of health conditions. The most common of these are adrenal disease, insulinomas, lymphoma, gastrointestinal disorders, gastrointestinal blockages, and ECE. I am not a veterinarian. All of the illnesses I discuss require the expertise of a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment. This web page and its’ contents do not replace the advice and care of a veterinarian. Rather, it offers some simple guidelines, information and symptoms for a few common conditions, plus vaccination information and tips on caring for a sick ferret. If your ferret seems “out of sorts” or is sick, please take it to a veterinarian as soon as possible. Ferrets can become seriously ill very quickly due to their small size and fast metabolism.
You can also visit the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center at http://www.napcc.aspca.org for information on protecting pets from accidental poisoning. Many common houseplants, medications and cleaning supplies can be lethal to your ferret.
In a poisoning emergency, you can call 888-426-4435 for assistance 24 hours a day or see a veterinarian immediately.
Tips to use in caring for a sick ferret:
Keep your ferret warm, comfortable and separated from any other ferrets until the illness has passed.
Keep your ferret hydrated.If your ferret has a contagious virus, any other ferrets you own could catch it as well. Wash all communal toys and bedding to avoid spreading the virus. You should always have an extra cage available in case separation is needed. Ferrets who are recovering from surgery should also be caged separately to avoid ripping or snagging the stitches during play. Most ferrets want quiet time when they are ill (except for your pampering). Keeping them caged during an illness makes keeping an eye on them a lot easier as well. A sick ferret may curl up under a piece of furniture or under a cabinet for privacy, making it very hard to find them. Make sure your ferret has something warm to snuggle up in as well. Do not place your ferret on a heating pad.
Make sure your ferret is eating enough to maintain weight.If your ferret is recovering from an intestinal virus, low blood sugar, surgery or other disease, he or she may not be eating enough to maintain body weight. If your ferret is refusing to eat on it’s own, you may need to hand feed prescription diet canned food or a suitable replacement.
Give your ferret lots of love and attention. Give your sick ferret kind words, attention and a song or two. You may feel silly singing to your ferret, but giving your ferret lots of soothing attention goes a long way. A sick ferret may feel depressed or stressed after being alone in his or her cage for extended periods of time. Hold your ferret often, and dish out lots of praise, petting and soft words. When one of my ferrets was critically ill after an intestinal virus and surgery, I would sing her upbeat songs and insert her name into the lyrics. Every time she heard me singing “her song,” she would pop her head out from underneath her blanket to see what was going on. It was a great way to connect with her while cooking dinner or doing other things. Moving your ferret’s cage to a more localized and less isolated location in the house can help as well. Ferrets are social animals and need to feel connected with the activities of others in their social group (you and your family).
Make sure your ferret stays hydrated. You can tell if your ferret is dehydrated by pulling up the skin on the “scruff” area of the neck and letting the skin fall. If the skin doesn’t snap back into place, or takes a long time to snap back, you ferret is probably dehydrated (older ferrets tend to have skin that may naturally snap back slowly. Get to know the normal skin behavior of your ferret.). You can also feel your ferret’s tongue and gums to see if they are lacking moisture. Often, ferrets will act disoriented and lethargic if dehydrated. If you suspect your ferret is dehydrated, please take it to a veterinarian. Once a ferret is very dehydrated he or she can not drink enough water to solve the problem. Intravenous or under the skin fluid injections are often needed. Just a few bouts of vomiting or diarrhea can cause dehydration.
Caring for a sick ferret can be a scary, challenging, and rewarding experience. Whether it is a cold or a life threatening illness, ferrets really benefit from constant attention and love. It is imperative that you contact or take your ferret to a veterinarian any time it is sick. What may start out as a simple cold or flu could turn into pneumonia or dehydration.
Be sure to check with your veterinarian before administering any “over the counter” pet store or human medications. For example, aspirin and other human pain medications can be lethal to a ferret. Human cough or cold medications can also kill or make your ferret very sick if they contain certain ingredients or are given in incorrect dosages. Your veterinarian can tell you which medications are safe and the correct dosages to give. Don’t put your ferret’s life in jeopardy to save time or money. Below I have listed some tips I have used in caring for ferrets who were recovering from an illness. I am assuming that your ferret has already been to the veterinarian for diagnosis. For more detailed information on this topic, please visit the web site of Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM.
Please, read the rest of this article. It has great information, not all of which Iam able to add in here.
http://www.ferret-universe.com/health/index.asp
The first and most important thing you can do for your ferret is to ensure you have a “ferret knowledgeable”veterinarian. For after hours emergencies, you should find out where they refer their clients, that has ferret-savy veterinarians present. When your ferret is ill, they can turn for the worse very quickly, and you CANNOT afford to wait a day or so or even hours in some circumstances. You should have a vet that is close by (even if they are just a back-up) where you could bring your ferret at any time; their life could depend on it!
It is important to note that unlike cats and dogs, ferrets DO catch and transmit the human flu. You should avoid being around (close) and touching your ferret if either of you is ill. If you must handle your ferret you should wash your hands before and after handling, and avoid breathing on them. It cannot be stressed enough that whenever your ferret is under the weather, not acting normal, looks funny etc., you should ALWAYS take them to the vet for a check-up! The longer you wait the worse the illness can get and very quickly.
If you acquire a young ferret, it is very common for them to have a prolapsed rectum. This usually is caused by young ferrets being fed hard food at an early age, which is a little rough on their system. This condition will usually clear up on it’s own within a week, but you can help comfort your ferret by applying a small amount of Preparation-H. If the rectum does not recede on it’s own within a few days or appears to be getting infected, you should take the ferret to the vet, as medical attention might be necessary in order to correct.
Ferrets are by nature very clean animals, and do accumulate hairball’s like cats do. Unlike cats however, ferrets do not generally posses the reflux motion to cough up any hairball accumulations (though some have been know to do so). The best prevention is to provide them with Laxatone/Petromalt on a weekly basis in order to lessen any accumulations from developing in their system. Some of the signs can be pencil thin poops, not pooping at all, refusing to eat, etc. If you suspect that your ferret might have a hairball or swallowed something they shouldn’t have that is not being passed, take him to the vet immediately, as an operation might be warranted for it’s removal. This situation can be life threatening to your ferret, so please do not wait.
The most heartbreaking/heart wrenching thing to hear, is that a ferret (or any animal) was turned into a shelter or put down because their owner felt their life wasn’t worth the expense of saving. When they need us the most, some folks find it easy to turn their back on them leaving the burden many times up to a shelter to pay the expense. Please make sure before bringing any pet into your home that you have the resources to tend to their needs emotionally and financially. If you cannot supply both, please reconsider bringing any pet into your home. They are a member of your family, and deserve to be treated as such.
Ferret – Mustela Furo
Carnivora (Carnivores) of the Family Mustelidae (Mustelids)
As the name implies, these fuzzy little creatures that capture our heart and soul are not rodents; they are from the mustildae family with cousins consisting of the mink, weasel, otter, skunk, badger and European polecat. Unlike their cousins, the domesticated ferret is not wild nor feral. In fact if left outside on it’s own they would most likely die without human intervention in a few day as their survival instincts at best is extremely minimal.
http://www.shirleys-wellness-cafe.com/ferret.htm
Ferret Natural Health Care and Optimum Diet
“Ferrets are strict carnivores, meaning they are designed to eat whole prey items, which includes all parts of the killed animal. The only nonmeat items they might encounter in their diet would be in the stomach and intestinal tract of their prey, where it is partially digested. Because of the short GI tract and the poor absorption of nutrients, ferrets require a diet that is highly concentrated with FAT as the main source of calories (energy) and highly digestible meat-based protein. Ferrets use fat for energy not carbohydrates and they need a highly digestible meat-based protein not vegetable protein.” Dr. Susan A. Brown, DVM
Ferrets are inquisitive, lively and charming little creatures that have captured the hearts of thousands of people around the world. They have an average lifespan of five to seven years with the current record being 14 years. The scientific name Mustela purorious furo means “little smelly thief”. Ferrets are the domesticated form of either the Eastern or Western European polecat. They have been domesticated since at least 300 BC and were originally used for rodent control and to hunt rabbits. The majority of ferrets in the world today are kept as pets either in the house or in outdoor enclosures.
Ferret’s Care and Diet
by Susan A. Brown, DVM
(excerpt)
Ferrets are strict carnivores, meaning they are designed to eat whole prey items, which includes all parts of the killed animal. The only nonmeat items they might encounter in their diet would be in the stomach and intestinal tract of their prey, where it is partially digested. This might include small amounts of grains, fruits and vegetables. Ferrets have a very short gastrointestinal (GI) tract and the flora (the organisms living in the GI tract) are very simple, unlike the flora of animals that eat more vegetation. It takes about 3 to 4 hours for food to go from one end to the other and thus they absorb food rather inefficiently. Ferrets tend to eat several smaller meals and carry any excess to their dens to eat later. Did you ever have a ferret that took food and tucked it away in the corner of the cage, or a piece of furniture?
Because of the short GI tract and the poor absorption of nutrients, ferrets require a diet that is highly concentrated with FAT as the main source of calories (energy) and highly digestible MEAT-BASED PROTEIN. This would match the basic composition of a prey animal not excluding the essential vitamins and minerals it also contains. Ferrets should never be fed carbohydrates (such as vegetable, fruit or grains) as the main source of energy in the diet. Ferrets cannot digest fiber, as is found in some vegetable and fruit sources. If there is a significant amount of fiber in the diet it serves to lower the nutritional value of the food. As mentioned, ferrets need a highly digestible meat-based protein in the diet. Vegetable protein is poorly utilized. In the presence of excess vegetable protein the ferret can suffer from such diseases as bladder stones, poor coat and skin quality, eosinophilic gastroenteritis (wasting, diarrhea, and ulcerations of the skin) poor growth of kits and decreased reproduction. Dog food and vegetarian-type pet foods are completely inappropriate for use in ferrets because of the high level of vegetable protein and fiber. The bottom line is that ferrets use fat for energy not carbohydrates and they need a highly digestible meat-based protein not vegetable protein.
Another concern regarding the feeding of high carbohydrate foods to ferrets is the stress that may be created in the beta cells of the pancreas. Unfortunately, insulinoma, which is a cancer of the beta cells, is extremely common in ferrets over two years of age in the U.S. The main function of the beta cell is to respond to increases in glucose in the blood stream by producing insulin to control it. If normal beta cells are bombarded with higher than normal levels of glucose (which comes from carbohydrates) they can become hypertrophied (overactive) trying to keep up with insulin demand. If the high carbohydrate diet continues, the result may be a complete burnout of the cells, which is what happens when a pet or a person develops diet-induced diabetes. However, another possibility is that instead of the cells burning out, they go from hypertrophy to neoplasia (cancer). Neoplasia is an abnormal growth of cells and can be preceded by a hyperplastic condition. I would like to stress that this exact mechanism has not been scientifically proven in ferrets to date, but the scenario is entirely within the realm of possibility. It has been disturbing to note that in the past in countries where ferrets were fed a raw carnivore-type diet insulinoma was a rare occurrence but now in these same countries where processed diets are becoming popular, cases of insulinoma are on the rise. Regardless, do we need to be feeding our ferrets diets laced with inappropriate materials?
The most appropriate diet for a ferret would be whole prey foods such as rats, mice or chicks. However, we realize that the average American feels squeamish or downright distressed by the thought of feeding these foods. However, owners of carnivorous reptiles, such as snakes, must feed these prey foods routinely, as there is no alternative for these reptile pets. If you are interested in trying this diet with your ferret then read the handout Rethinking the Ferret Diet for information on sources for disease-free, humanely killed frozen prey foods.
The next best choice to feeding a whole prey diet is to feed a balanced raw carnivore diet. There are more and more of these diets available in either freeze-dried or frozen form as pet food companies realize that heat processing the food and making little baked kibbles may not be the answer. Several of the fresh, frozen or freeze-dried carnivore diets have been successfully used in ferrets. Our current recommendation is the Archetype Diet by Wysong. It is cold-processed, contains beef, lamb and chicken meat products, is well accepted and comes in small chunks so it is easy to feed. In general, you should look for diets that they are made from meat suitable for human consumption (preferably organic) containing all the parts of the animal (organ meat, muscle, fat and bone), a high level of fat and containing no grain or grain products, sweeteners or chemical preservatives. Do not use diets designed for dogs that contain vegetables and grains. See the handout Rethinking the Ferret Diet for information on Internet sources for other frozen or freeze dried carnivore diets.
Now we come to dry, processed ferret diets, the very diet most veterinarians, ourselves included, have used for years. Although there have been tremendous strides made in the quality of dry ferret diets in the last 25 years, we have yet to see one that we believe is completely appropriate for ferrets. Let’s take a look at the composition of these diets and compare that to what we know of ferret nutrition. We have discussed that ferrets are carnivores and need a high protein, high fat diet with minimal carbohydrates. To use numbers, a dry ferret diet should contain at least 30 – 40 % crude protein and 15 –20% fat. The protein should be of animal origin and highly digestible. Unfortunately, pet food labels do not indicate digestibility of the components and the protein percent you read may contain both animal and plant sources of protein. In addition, grains, such as corn, wheat or rice, are used not only to increase protein but as a “filler” and as a means of binding the final product together. Ingredients on a pet food label are given in order of their amount in the diet, starting with the largest. For ferrets, the first three ingredients should be meat-based. Processed dry foods are heated during production and in the process nutrients can be destroyed or altered and then have to be replaced artificially. In addition, other additives may be used to keep the food from spoiling. To add insult to injury, several of the diets have dried fruits and vegetables in them. Ferrets do not need these items and in addition the dried form can make it nearly impossible for the ferret to process. We have already had one case of a ferret that needed emergency surgery to remove a piece of dried carrot blocking his intestine that he consumed in a “ferret diet”. Clearly, these diets are packaged to appeal to human consumers and may have little to do with appropriate ferret nutrition.
The worst examples of processed diets are the ferret treat foods. Nine out of ten ferret-specific treat foods we examined had no meat products whatsoever and were comprised entirely of sweeteners and grains, with some fruits and vegetables thrown in. This is not only not healthy it is downright dangerous.
In addition, people who use treats often use too many because it is emotionally appealing to watch a ferret enjoy a snack. So if the pet enjoys one treat why not give him five or six? In an animal with such a small body size, five or six treats might make up a good portion of his food for the day. Of course ferrets love the treats because they are attracted to sweets, but that does not mean it is good for them? Many people like chocolate, but if they ate chocolate as 25% of their diet, they would have some serious health problems including diabetes! Again, the packaging is for the human and as long as we keep buying it, companies will keep making it.
If you decide to make a change, you may find that adult ferrets can be very particular and will resist change. This is because ferrets develop most of their taste preferences by four months of age but they will change if given no choice. We do not believe that it is necessary to “wean” a ferret off of a less digestible and gradually introduce him to a more digestible diet. We just change “cold turkey”. If you keep offering the old diet, there may never be a change to the new diet because they will go back to the original diet. It will probably be necessary to let your pet get hungry before he/she makes a change. Temporarily coating a new food with a fatty acid supplement or vegetable or fish oil as an enticement may help. However, be aware that ferrets that have insulinomas should not be fasted for more than 6 hours. These little guys may take a bit more time to change over the diet. If your ferret is currently being treated for any illness, consult your veterinarian first before making any changes.
* Ferrets are strict carnivores, meaning they are designed to eat whole prey items, which includes all parts of the killed animal.
* Because of the short GI tract and the poor absorption of nutrients, ferrets require a diet that is highly concentrated with FAT as the main source of calories (energy) and highly digestible MEAT-BASED PROTEIN.
* The bottom line is that ferrets use fat for energy not carbohydrates and they need a highly digestible meat-based protein not vegetable protein. The most appropriate diet for a ferret would be whole prey foods such as rats, mice or chicks. The worst examples of processed diets are the ferret treat foods. Read Dr. Brown’s entire article
http://www.extremeweezils.com/health.html
Ferret Health and Light Cycles: A Connection?
During these weeks of Winter Darkness, when the days are at their shortest and the darkness rules the land, a question has been rasied on the Ferret Mailing List [FML} about the connection, if any, between ferret health and light exposure cycles.
The most common health problem facing ferrets after the age of two years is adrenal related, a hormonal imbalance that may be preventable, slowed, or even treated by strict control of ferret light exposure.
The optimal lighting enviroment for ferrets is said to be via natural spectrum bulbs on a timer, to be turned on at sunrise and off at sunset according to the local times. At night, if light is needed, red light should be used to simulate darkness and nighttime.
YOU SHOULD CALL THE FERRET VET IF SYMPTOMS INDICATE ....
labored, difficult breathing
symptoms of broken bones, reluctance to put any pressure on a particular limb
eye injuries of any kind
loss of consciousness, loss of balance
loss of color in gums, nose [indicative of internal bleeding, anemia]
spine, head injuries, cranial bleeding of any kind
pawing at mouth, drooling
persistent hair loss
bloody stool
http://www.animalhospitals-usa.com/small_pets/ferret_health.html
Two medical conditions of ferrets demand special mention: the ferret’s extreme susceptibility to canine distemper and the unusual consequences of female ferrets coming into heat. Other medical conditions are also briefly discussed in the general, parasitic and infections diseases pages.
Canine Distemper: Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper. The initial signs of the disease appear 7-10 days after exposure to the virus and include inappetence and a thick mucus and pus-laden discharge from the eyes and nostrils. A rash commonly appears under the chin and in the groin area 10-12 days following exposure. The foot pads become greatly thickened. This disease is considered 100% fatal, with infected ferrets dying approximately 3 1/2 weeks after initial exposure. Prevention of this disease should be an absolute priority because treatment is useless. Kits should first be vaccinated against canine distemper at 6-8 weeks of age (4-6 weeks of age if kits are from unvaccinated mothers). A booster vaccination is essential 2-3 weeks later. Yearly boosters are recommended thereafter.
Heat Periods: Female ferrets are seasonally polyestrus, which means they can come into heat more than once during the breeding season (March through August). They are also induced ovulators, which means ovulation occurs after copulation. The onset of heat is recognized by swelling of the external genitalia. If a ferret in heat does not engage in copulation, she will remain in heat for up to 160 days. If she is bred, the swelling of the external genitalia usually regresses to normal within 2-3 weeks after copulation. Sustained sexual heat is dangerous and life-threatening because it usually results in bone marrow suppression. This results in severe anemia and decreases in the number of circulating white blood cells. Because of this likelihood, any female ferret not intended for breeding should be sterilized (spayed or ovariohysterectomized) at 6-8 months of age. Female ferrets in heat can be taken out of heat within about 3 weeks by injection of a specific hormone after the first 10 days of heat. Once out of heat, they can be spayed before they come back into heat (usually 40-50 days after administration of the hormone).
Feline Distemper: Researchers claim that ferrets are not susceptible to feline distemper. There are, however, reliable reports to the contrary. Consequently, the decision to vaccinate ferrets against this disease is an option for each ferret owner. However, if an individual ferret is likely to have substantial contact with cats (especially those of unknown or uncertain health status), vaccination of the ferret against feline distemper is a wise idea. The vaccine itself cannot harm the animal, and it represents “insurance.” The vaccination schedule for feline distemper is the same as for canine distemper. Most veterinarians administer a combination canine distemper-feline distemper vaccine.
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?c=11
